Paris. It captured my heart. I thought a month would be long enough to see all the sights, experience all the food, visit all of the museums, and even take a few day trips out of the city. I was dreaming. A lifetime could barely do justice to this incredible city. I tried my best though, so here are some of my favourite things I did and experienced.

Notre Dame
The largest cathedral in Paris, Notre Dame de Paris (Our Lady of Paris) is located on the Ile de la Cite and is an amazing example of French Gothic architecture. Construction began in 1163 and wasn’t completed until 1345. I began my day there at 7:45am, thinking I would beat the crowds and the lines to climb the 387 steps up to the tower. I was successful at beating the crowds and was able to walk straight into the cathedral and enjoy the interior in peace for 45 minutes with only a few other early birds. I hadn’t done my research well enough though, and found that the tower didn’t open until 10am, and with people already lining up at 8:30am I guess there was no way I was going to skip the queue.

It was worth the wait though. The first ascent takes you to a landing where you can view the grotesque and often scary gargoyles up close and personal. The entry to the belfry is also located here, and a climb up a set of wooden stairs will bring you into Quasimodo’s hang-out and the large bells of the belfry. A final climb up a spiral staircase takes you to the highest point of one of the towers, and affords wonderful 360 degree views over Paris. This is an experience not to be missed.

Sacre Coeur
Upon the top of Montmartre’s hill sits the Basilica de Sacre Couer (Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Paris). The highest point in the city, it stands out from every viewpoint across the city.

Of all of the churches I visited while in Paris, the Sacre Coeur was the only one that doesn’t allow photos to be taken inside. The huge dome is a beautifully painted mural and there are often local people praying. While visiting one night waiting for the sun to set I was reminded that it is still a functioning church as I came across the 10pm mass. I sat and watched from a pew in the back for quite some time, even though it was in French, as mass seems to be the same everywhere, and even though I haven’t attended for 15 years I recognised each part as they moved through the motions.

A climb to the top of the Sacre Coeur, another 380 or so steps, has some of the most amazing views across Paris. There was no line at all when I climbed early one morning, unlike Notre Dame, so it is a great alternative for those who don’t want to spend their limited time queuing.

While on the hill of Montmartre also make sure to visit Place du Tertre and watch all of the artists at work, usually on either paintings of Paris scenes or portraits of tourists.

Take a guided tour with Paris Walks
Paris Walks takes guided tours all over the city, covering different eras of history and aspects of the city. Interested in the French Revolution? There was is a walk for you. Medieval Paris and the Templars? One for you too. Paris during the occupation, Paris during WWI, Paris Fashion Walk, The Chocolate Tour, Paris of the Impressionists, there is something to everyone’s taste. I took two walks, Hemingway’s Paris and Fitzgerald, Hemingway and the Left Bank Writers (yes there is a theme there, this era of the expats on the Left Bank fascinates me). Although most (but not all) of the sites visited can be found yourself, it is the anecdotes and amazing knowledge of these guides that make them so worthwhile. All tours run for about 2 hours, no booking necessary, and they only cost €12. More information on Paris Walks can be found here.

Eiffel Tower
Surely the most enduring and instantly recognisable landmark in Paris, the Eiffel Tower is a must for any visitor. I’ll make a confession though. I didn’t go up it! My justification for this supposed grave error? For me looking at the Eiffel Tower is the purpose of it, and when you are up it, you can’t see it! There are so many other viewpoints in the city that give you a great view of the tower, and that is what I prefer. (Besides, I went up it 15 years ago, so if I need to have a check list to check off, I can say that I have done it). The perfect way to experience the tower is to start at the Trocedero, the giant monument overlooking the tower and where you will find dozens of couples having professional photos taken. The fountains below are a lovely place to sit and relax and view the tower, and of course you can’t miss the quintessential experience of having a picnic of cheese, baguettes and wine while sitting on the grass of the Champ de Mars.

Museum hop
There are so many amazing and worthwhile museums in Paris that it’s impossible to see them all in a month. There are a few that should be on everyone’s must do list. The Louvre of course is the one where most people head first, jostling for a place in front of the Mona Lisa and the Venus de Milo. This is also where you’ll likely find the longest lines. Other museums, which I actually preferred, were the Musee d’Orsay with its divine Impressionists exhibition, and the Musee de L’Orangerie, with Monet’s giant Water Lilies paintings.

Eat
Food glorious food! Sorry, wrong city, but same sentiment. Fromageries, boulangeries, patisseries, creperies, onion soup, baguettes that are crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside, sidewalk cafes by the thousands, hidden courtyards, small authentic unknown restaurants, popular places featured in Midnight in Paris, ice-cream, Nutella crepes, pain au chocolate, orangina, macarons, croissants, wine, champagne, and the cheese, OH THE CHEESE! This is food paradise.

Luxembourg Gardens
When the heat of summer gets too much, head to the greenery and shade of a park. The Luxembourg Gardens are the largest gardens in Paris and feature the cool shaded area of the Medici Fountain, the wonderful Luxembourg Palace, cafes and sometimes live music. A great place to relax and read a book, or indulge in photography of the beautiful flower gardens.

Learn to make macarons
A soon as I knew I was headed to Paris I knew I wanted to learn how to make macarons. I found a wonderful baking school that only takes small classes of six people per class, so our wonderful teacher /chef could really focus on our mistakes! Mistakes aside, the macarons turned out wonderfully, and yummy, and we had an awesome time learning to make them, and then taking them home to eat. Patisserie a la Carte also teaches classes in croissants, pain au chocolate, fraisiers (strawberry cake) and more. Find them here.

The Paris Catacombs
The Paris Catacombs hold the bones and skulls of over six million Paris inhabitants. When the cemeteries began to fill up and overflow, these underground caverns were consecrated and the decayed bodies moved here, in a wonderful and weird array of piles and patterns of bones. Get here early (about 8:30am for the 10am opening time) otherwise you may be lining up for up to 4 hours.