I last visited Chiang Mai fifteen years ago, and on the overnight train up there I tried to conjour some memories of my last visit. I drew a blank. Although I recall the trekking through the hilltribe villages, the shopping for silver, and riding an elephant, I couldn’t recall a single thing regarding what the town of Chiang Mai looked like, or what else there was to see. I was glad to be back, experiencing this lovely town as if for the first time.
The old historical centre of Chiang Mai is surrounded by a moat, with old wall gates serving as the main entrances to the town. I was staying a short walk from Chiang Mai Gate, on the southern end of town. For three days I wandered aimlessly throughout the town centre, from Wat to Wat, fruit shake to fruit shake, with a relaxing massage thrown in for good measure.
Chiang Mai is home to some 30 plus Wats within, or in close proximity to the old city walls.
Chiang Mai’s Wats
Prah Singh
Wat with no name
Okay, that’s not entirely true. This Wat I am sure has a name, however the signage was all in Thai, unlike the other Wats in town which include English translations. This Wat stood out to me because when I stumbled upon it there was not another soul around. The Wat and surrounding buildings themselves were closed, however walking around the deserted grounds, alone, was pure serenity. The sounds of the chaotic streets of Chiang Mai could not be heard, and I strolled peacefully to the sounds of the bells chiming in the breeze, and birds fluttering and twittering about. A lone dog barking at me broke the reverie and I made a hasty retreat, perhaps he was the guard dog and I wasn’t supposed to be there!
Wat Chedi Luang
On my first afternoon wandering around I came across Wat Chedi Luang, one of the larger Wats in town. It was mid afternoon and just outside the Wats gates street vendors were starting to set up food stalls, and other stalls were selling baskets of flowers. I didn’t think much of it at the time, so imagine my surprise when walking back past a few hours later I found at least 100 stalls set up and the Wat absolutely teaming with people. I had stumbled into the Chiang Mai Intakin Festival, the annual festival of rain and giving thanks. Thousands of local Thai were buying the baskets of flowers and placing flowers all over the Wats grounds as an offering. Piles of flowers lay everywhere. Street stalls were selling all sorts of delicious food and drink (including my favourite fruit shakes) and I tried some chicken and beef skewers (avoiding the one I was told was ‘chickens insides’). A small carnival was set up with children’s rides and you could win all manner of stuffed animals at the sideshow alley. I spent hours watching Thai families enjoy the festival, and was so glad that I had found it.
Night markets
A new friend from LA, Judy, and I made out way to renowned night markets of Chiang Mai. Now these I did remember from my previous visit, however they were nothing like I recalled. Back then the markets occupied a single long street, with stalls set up on either side of the road, selling handicrafts from hilltribe villages and the usual tourist souvenirs. Now there are huge undercover mall like sections to the markets with food courts, and even a McDonalds. After a short time the merchandise seems to be all the same, and, as Judy pointed out, you get the distinct feeling that the vendors all order their goods from the same supplier. It is still fun to wander around there, maybe take a foot fish spa and eat some of the street food still available (the mushrooms wrapped in bacon are divine, but I guess bacon makes anything taste good).
